Florida, December 2011

During the last week of 2011, to escape the cold winter of Connecticut, we visited Florida. Located in the extreme south-eastern U.S., Florida is a peninsula between the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean, whose primary geographic feature is the most extensive coastline of the lower 48 states (2170 km = 1350 miles). Most of the state is at sea level and is characterized by sedimentary soils and a climate that varies from subtropical in the north to tropical in the south.

Saw Palmetto, Serenoa repens, one of about a dozen species of palm found in Florida
Archbold Biological Station.  December 26, 2011

With the idea of ​​visiting a variety of ecosystems, from the wetlands of Everglades National Park and the Gulf Coast, to the dry forests of the interior, we headed south. 

Our first stop was Archbold Biological Station, in centrally-located Highlands County, where we hoped to observe the Florida Scrub-Jay, Aphelocoma coerulescens.  This Jay is found only in Florida, where it is celebrated as the state's sole endemic bird, making the very short list (13 species) of birds endemic to the lower 48 states of the US. 

Florida Scrub-jay, Aphelocoma coerulescens
Archbold Biological Station, Florida. Dec. 26, 2011

It prefers habitat characterized by a xerophytic plant community dominated by shrubs and dwarf oaks, where the quartz-sand soils are nutrient-poor and retain little moisture.  In this arid ecosystem the jay feeds mainly on invertebrates, acorns and small vertebrates.

Archbold Biological Station covers an area of ​​2100 ha where field studies have recorded significant biodiversity:  593 species of vascular plant, 48 reptiles, 21 amphibians, 27 fish, 44 mammals, 208 species of bird and more than 6000 species of insects and other invertebrates, including the greatest diversity of ants (117 species) known from a single place in North America.  For decades, researchers at Archbold have also studied the impact of burns, both natural and controlled - fire is an essential element of the entire scrub oak ecosystem.

Sunset sky at Archbold Biological Station. Dec 26, 2011

Continuing further south we come to Everglades National Park which, with an area of ​​6.105 km2 (2,357 square miles), is the third largest national park of the lower 48 states.  The first US National Park to protect an ecosystem, rather than a geologic feature, it is one of only three national parks in the world to be listed as a Wetland of International Importance, an International Biosphere Reserve and a World Heritage Site.

Early morning at Anhinga Trail, Everglades National Park, Florida.  December 27, 2011 

Purple Gallinule, Porphyrio martinica
Everglades National  Park, Florida.  December 27, 2011

The Everglades ecosystem originates over 200 miles to the north, in the watershed of the vast but shallow Lake Okeechobee.  During rainy season, the southbound outflow becomes a slow-moving river, 60 miles wide and 100 miles long.  The southernmost portion of this “river of grass” is the Everglades National Park, protecting a complex biosystem of sawgrass marshes, mangrove forests, hardwood hammocks, cypress swamps, limestone ridges and the marine zones that border Florida Bay.

Mangroves on Florida Bay at Flamingo, Everglades National Park.  Dec. 28, 2011

After two days in the Everglades, we drove northwest to Sanibel Island, on Florida's Gulf coast.  Sanibel is a small barrier island, 40% of which is protected land.  The big draw for birders is the J. N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge - a region of mangroves and quiet lagoons.  A haven for wading birds, shorebirds and ducks, the park is perfectly designed for birders, with a one-way, low-speed road bisecting the wetlands.

Jorge photographing herons at Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge
Sanibel Island, December 29, 2011

Roseate Spoonbill, Ajaia ajaja
Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge, December 29, 2011

Another biodiversity hotspot in the southeastern US is the forest ecosystem centered around the Longleaf Pine (Pinus palustris).  This long-needled pine thrives in sandy soils and has many adaptations to resist fire.  In fact it thrives in fire-prone regions, where the understory trees may be burned out, leaving a sunny, open, savannah-like forest.  In the three centuries since settlers first arrived with axes, Longleaf Pine forests have been reduced to 5% of their former range.  In tandem, the wildlife that depends on these forests has also become scarce.

Longleaf Pine forest at dawn.
Babcock-Webb Wildlife Management Area, Florida.  December 30, 2011.

We "targeted" two bird species which inhabit Florida's Longleaf Pine forests - the Red-cockaded Woodpecker (Picoides borealis) and Brown-headed Nuthatch (Sitta pusilla).  The woodpecker's populations are in serious decline, but recent restoration efforts are succeeding in establishing new colonies.  The nuthatch has less restrictive habitat needs, hence is not as vulnerable.  These birds are regional endemics - found only in the southeastern US (except for a small population of the nuthatch on Grand Bahama Island (UK)), which is just 90 km (56 mi) off the Atlantic coast of Florida.

Red-cockaded Woodpecker, Picoides borealis
Babcock-Webb Wildlife Management Area, December 30, 2011

About a three-hour drive north of the Everglades, Babcock-Webb Wildlife Management Area is where we hoped to find these Longleaf Pine specialties.  Luck was with us that afternoon - we met Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission biologist Wendy Wilsdon, who is responsible for the Red-cockaded Woodpecker management program at Babcock-Webb.  She gave us an overview of the conservation program, and tips on how to view the birds.

Marked trees indicate roost holes of the Red-cockaded Woodpecker
Babcock-Webb WMA, December 30, 2011

In our final two days of travel, we improvised.  Our little orange book on the birds of Florida mentioned a state park on the Atlantic coast where we might find birds of interest. Fort Glinch State Park in the town of Fernandina Beach is home to a breeding population of Painted Buntings, but not in December.  We went anyway.

Fernandina Beach, Florida. December 31, 2011

Instead of buntings we were treated to great views of a mixed flock of Black Skimmers, Forster’s and Royal Terns, and Ring-billed and Laughing Gulls roosting on the beach in the early morning.  The park and beach are on Amelia Island, the southernmost of the Sea Islands, a chain of over 100 barrier islands which begin 350km (220 miles) to the north.

Black Skimmer, Rynchops niger
Ring-billed Gull, Larus delawarensis (L)and Laughing Gull, Leucophaeus atricilla (R)
Fernandina Beach, December 31, 2011

The final day of our trip was still full of surprises.  A quick check of the local birding list-serves showed a vagrant Black-headed Gull in Virginia’s Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.  Mid-morning we arrived, in company with many local birders, all of us were excited to find the vagrant gull.  For us it was yet another beautiful bird in yet another beautiful wildlife refuge.

Black-headed Gull, Chroicocephalus ridibundus
Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, Virginia, January 1, 2012

Tundra Swans, Cygnus columbianus, displaying in pairs
Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, January 1, 2012

Continuing north towards home, we selected one last site to visit before sundown.  Delaware’s Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge is famous for its concentrations of wintering ducks and geese – and we were not disappointed! 

American Avocet, Recurvirostra americana
Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge, Delaware. January 1, 2012

The refuge protects 13,000 acres of tidal salt marsh - one of the largest unaltered marshes on the east coast.  Within the park there are ponds and pools whose water levels are managed to encourage vegetation for waterfowl.  At certain times of year, the pools are drained, attracting large flocks of shorebirds to the exposed mudflats.

One week, ten states, 5773km (3,587 miles), nine parks and refuges, and 133 species of birds later, we returned home to Connecticut.  Then comes the fun of sorting and editing over 3000 photographs, choosing our favorite birds and savoring the memories of every single one.